Choquequirao Trip - Day 4

I woke up quite early, despite the short hours of sleep; I woke rested and full of energy. It was a very cold, fresh and chilly morning but very invigorating.

We were awakened by our crew with a cup hot mate tea. We had our breakfast served hot and healthy. We waited no time for it. It was as good as the prior dinner, healthy and tasty.  As soon as we were done we went to pack our belongings and soon thereafter we were ready for our second day of hiking.  We stated around 6:00 am. My bell from Turkey announced the beginning of the trek to the group. (Trek or Trekking is a long journey undertaken on foot in areas where common means of transport is generally not available). The ringing of the bell connected and grounded me, what a great beginning.  For my second day I packed lighter and left some of my excess stuff for the mules and our horseman to carry. Hugo the leader of this group was so helpful taking care of all us and making this second day a stress free one.

 

I remember the joy I felt at the start of this second day. The morning was so fresh, the nature was so welcoming and the breeze was chilly but relaxing. I was proud and ready for the trails which were as beautiful as the first day but a little easier since we were going down to meet the roaring river of Apurimac.

 

The Apurímac River (Spanish: Río Apurímac, pronounced [apuˈɾimak]) ("apu"=divinity "rimac"=oracle, talker) rises from glacial meltwater of the ridge of Nevado Mismi, a 5,597-meter high mountain in the Arequipa Province in southern Peru. The Apurímac is the source of the world's largest river system, the Amazon River. It rises in Peru's south-western cordilleras, 10 km (7 miles) from the village of Caylloma, and less than 160 km (100 miles) from the Pacific coast. It flows generally northwest past Cuzco in narrow gorges of up to 3,000 m, twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the USA, its course interrupted by falls and rapids. Of the six attempts so far to travel the Apurímac in its full length, only two have been successful.

Can you imagine us hiking down this majestic and impressive view? No wonder my energy and disposition.  We made it to the campsite by the river by early morning. The beauty of this river was like nothing I have ever seen before. The sound of the passing river was surrounding every cell of body, it made it vibrate like lightning.

 The name of this bridge is The Choquequirao Bridge. It is the natural division between the departments of Apurimac and Cusco. This also marked the beginning of the most difficult and grueling hike of the trip. It started from 1550 meters at the bridge to 2500 meters at our new campsite. It took three to four hours of constantly going up with a very hard and slow walk. At one moment I felt like a snail climbing to the top of th Andes. I was so tired that my ancestors came and visited me and gave me extra motivation to continue in the journey. I knew that Condors could make it to the top of the Andes in no time.  They will then fly from peak to peak moving their wings in a majestic way.  Nonetheless, I was determined to make it.  I will take four or five steps and rest. I had no more energy left and when I would look up to the sky to ask for assistance, there it was, a Majestic Condor flying over us like saying I also welcome you to the “Cuna de Oro” the Golden Crater of the mountain site of Choquequirao.

Carlos and Rooney were highly impressive by this showing since Condors are rarely seeing flying over the mountains.  They both recognized the blessing and spiritual significance of it. I, on the other hand, felt the calling to finish this part of the trail even if it was with the help of Apache, our horse. Rooney gracefully offer me the horse which I took humbly to the top of the campsite.

We can all make it to the top of the hills, some fly like the condor, some jump like the rabbits, so run like the pumas and some drag and crawl like a snail and me. But we can all make to the mountaintop.

I felt blessed by the accomplishment of my second day it didn’t matter how it ended. It took me six months of practice to be able to make it. In life, is not about how fast you make it, but is to make it to the finish line.  Is also about enjoying the moment and each step of the journey no matter how painful it is.  On my second day I did both.  I am deeply grateful to my creator for the opportunity of living this experience and the wisdom that it has given me. I hope that I can apply this lesson to my daily life, so it could be an encouragement to me and to others. The harder the journey the bigger the triumph.

For those Spanish speaking please take time to read the following poem. It's about a condor and a snail on their trip to the top of the Andes. It was given to Mildred and me on our graduation from Junior High School. We both were part of a poem group; I was the voice of God. This poem has inspired me through my life, hope it does the same for you (we will work on the English translation).

Poema el Condor y el Caracol, a draft made on July 10, 2009

(we both where 15 years old when we first memorized this poem, back in 1975)

El cóndor vanidoso se levanta  diciéndole al humilde caracol, veas aquella montaña tan alta como el Sol? Es una cumbre andina y hasta su propia cima tan solo sube un Condor como yo. Respondió el caracol humildemente; suba su majestad que yo  lo sigo. Batió el ave su alas  y al instante pósese altivo en la montaña Andina. Volaba el Cóndor por una y otra cima. Y al pasar mucho tiempo en una cumbre detuvo sé cansando.

Mas cual no fue su asombro un último esfuerzo El Caracol hacia y a la cumbre subía. Como llegaste aquí Vil Atrevido? Respondió el Caracoleó humildemente. Señor he subido hasta la cima noblemente. Subía aquí descansaba allá. Descansaba un instante y ascendía.  Mientras cómodo en la cumbre tú te hallabas, yo dando tropezones persistía. Y al fin aquí me tienes compañero tú no eres el Señor de las aturas. Otros suben a la cima. Unos  vuelan como tú y  unos brincan otros corren o se arrastran  como yo. Pero al fin compañero todos suben.

Una voz de lo alto resonó “bienaventurado los que se arrastran los que luchan y persisten los que saltan los tropiezos los que brincan las paredes que los tienen Prisioneros Los que dicen es posible hare mi supremo esfuerzo. Sepan pues los caracoles que la Gloria alcanzada tras la lucha es de todas las glorias la más noble”.

Todos suben compañeros todos suben unos vuelan, unos corren, unos brincan o se arrastran como yo  pero al fin compañeros todos suben. 

Choquequirao Trip - Day 3 to 8

I finally find myself with time and the state of mental and physical well-being to be able to resume my journalizing of the trip. The trip through the mountains was both physically and mentally a challenging. I used every time and energy to accomplish the Journey and experience the mystical events and admire the amazing beauties that besiege me. My brain is not entirely back the are segments of my memory bank that are not accessible and I am still not fully here or there. Nonetheless I will like to Share some of this memorable experiences.

Let me start from saying how proud I am of being able to complete this 5 days trip. It has being the most physically grueling and challenging event in my life.  This was my maiden voyage and could have being a better one. I had to use every cell, every bit of energy and use every motivation talk to finished but I did. I was the snail crawling up the mountain but I finally reach the summit and was visited and welcomed by the majestic Condor keeper of the Andes.

My eternal gratitude to my group without which I could I have started. There love, support and compassion where instrumental. Also my gratitude to the Shamans and the guides and support workers, without them we still be in base camp.

Day 3.

The Choquequirao hike was very challenging. It required for each one of us to be ready to hike 6 to 8 hours a day. This terrain was very uneven and had many hills. Choquequirao sits in the saddle of the high of the Andeans ridge, 10,000 feet above sea level.  The city is an inspiring example of an elite Inca ceremonial center. It was dedicated to the worship of the mountain Gods or Apus, the river and all the other elements of natures. Choquequirao, the other Machu Picchu means "Cradle of Gold" in Quechua, the Inca´s language, although this is probably not its original name. It is another "Lost City of the Incas" rediscovered officially late in 20th century located high on a ridge spur almost 1750 meters above the raging glacier-fed Apurimac River and surrounded by towering Salkantay and Humantay snow-capped peaks.

Choquequirao was built during the last days of the Inca Empire in the government of the Inca Pachacutec 1490, by Tupac Inca Yapanqui, and probably after the Spanish invasion in 1532. Almost 40 years the Inca's held stand against the spanish conquerors (between 1536 - 1572). The construction of the different levels of temples, palaces, canals and aqueducts is really fantastic. “Choquequirao is the city which demonstrates the inspiring example of an elite Inca ceremonial center. A city dedicated to worship the “Pachamama” the Andean mother earth “the Apus” mountain gods and divinities, the river and the elements of nature."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choquequirao

I was mesmerized by the beauty of the mountains and the rivers and streams. I spent the majority of time in a sightseeing mode. We did a ceremony to asked permission from the Mountains to enter the domain.  While the ceremony was being carried by Carlos, our Shaman, several eagles were flying over us and flicked there wings like blessing our entrance and giving us the welcoming from the Apus mountains.  We all felt so special, so full cover by sublime energy of tranquility and greatness.

We where so intrigued by the surrounding beautiful scenes that most of our time was spent taking pictures and appreciating it. We stop so frequently to take pictures, that I am sure this explains why it took us about 9 to 10 hours to make it to first camp site when it should have taken just around 6 to 8 hours. We made it on the dark of the night as we attempted to hike with flashlight and head lights. It was quite an experience to hike down these narrow and rocky trails in the middle of the night.  It was so good to finally make to our first camp site safely and with all our body parts.  It was the first big achievement.

We finally made it and our trek was setup and soon the food was READY.  While eating, we discuss our slow day progress and the need to sleep it up for the coming dates. Our dining room was set in a basic, simple structure made of tree branches and cover by some kind of dry leaves. Despite its simplicity, the food and service were exquisite and delicious. Was as good and as elegant like any five star facility. Modesto, the main cook and his crew, certainly created high standards for days to come. Rooney, our team leader, was so tactful with us through the night never making us uncomfortable with our first date achievements; however he reminded us of the need to speed our process so that we can finish our second day in timelier manner. What a wise man!

At the end of the night I went to my tent where Dirk and I had all our equipment and our stuff.  Even though it was a crowded place and the accommodations were small, it didn’t bother us too much. I was too tired and too impressed by the experience.   That first night I woke up to empty my bladder. The night was cold and the fogs covered the mountains. When I looked up, a space cleared over the skies and a single bright star was shining and blinking which I felt was straight down at me. I was so overtaken by the moment that I closed my eyes and Oh my God!  When I open them again the star was gone and that was the only night that the star ever appeared. I felt like God was telling me - I welcome you and will guide you in this trip and in your life.  I felt the graced and the blessing that was given to me in that spiritual instant.

For the rest of the night, it was difficult to fall asleep. I was enjoying the experience. I was being soothed by the surrounding sounds of nature. I finally fell asleep.